Honking Surf, No Cajones…

Today, the east facing beaches were FIRING!! Light offshore winds were holding up head and a half (+) bombs all morning. A few hardy folks paddled out, and 75% of them came back with their boards in one piece… The few who caught a good ride are probably still amping, 12 hours later! Those who didn’t, well, they probably still have ice cream headaches and salt water dripping out their noses… I chose to sit this sesh out, after talking to one of the best local surfers I know: “I’m just glad I made it out and back in, in one piece. I didn’t catch any waves.”

Light west turned into moderate SW breeze by mid afternoon, so Stuart and I went on a recon mission to see if it was sailable…

‘Twasn’t. As you can see, Ego Beach was doing it’s best impression of Backdoor/Pipeline. It’s bigger than it looks. Schlogging a 5.7 would have been death on a stick if you were in the wrong place at the wrong time today!
So, after looking around for a few hours, we ended up nabbing a sunset sesh at the hole, 5.7 and freestyle board, and loads of fun! And nobody died or broke any gear! Success!